Naso del Lyskamm Traverse
The Naso del Lyskamm is an elegant peak set in one of the most spectacular environments in the Alps, among seracs, vast glaciers, and a unique view of the Eastern and Western Lyskamm and the other 4000-meter peaks in the area.
This traverse is the most challenging stage of the Spaghetti Tour, the now-classic high-altitude traverse of the Monte Rosa huts and peaks.
Through this peak, you can reach the Lys Glacier and the Gnifetti and Mantova Huts starting from the Quintino Sella Hut at Felik.
How the experience unfolds
The ascent takes place over two days. On the first day, you depart from Gressoney-Staffal and, using the ski lifts, reach the Bettaforca Pass. From here, a walk of about three hours leads to the Quintino Sella Hut, where you spend the night.
On the second day, you set off at dawn to tackle the traverse of the Felik Glacier and the Western Lys Glacier to the base of the Naso del Lyskamm. You cross the terminal crevasse and climb about a hundred meters up a rocky spur and mixed terrain. The route continues along a steep, often icy slope and a sharp snow ridge that leads to the panoramic summit.
The descent still requires concentration given the sustained steepness of the slopes leading down to the Lys Glacier. Along the latter, you easily reach the Gnifetti and Mantova Huts and finally Punta Indren with its cable car that takes you back down to Staffal.
